Costume Designs/Shoes

I didn't find very much, and quite a lot of the information on actual boot and shoe construction/pattern drafting  seemed to be to pay-walled course material or references to "delisted" out of print book titles.

In relation to 'boot covers for cosplay" pages, The ones I found seemed to suggest using a shaped pattern traced from a spare pair of heels or flat (ballerina?) type pumps. Whilst this approach is entirely reasonable, it limits such patterns to a specific individual (and with the heels to a specific heel design).  From reading around a bit it seems that the heels or pumps are being used as a substitute "last"(?).

This got me thinking, surely it would be possible based on some 3D modelling in Blender and Make Human to create some basic parametric hand and foot models in "open source" from which appropriate formulae and measure points could be extracted for tools like Valentina? It's then relatively straightforward to draft the patterns.. Such a model need not be that accurate as most boot cover designs I've seen in images tend to have some give/ease compared to actual shoe/boot designs (that said, I don't see why Valentina couldn't be used in designing 'costume/fashion' pumps/boots/heels etc.)

In terms of pattern drafting a boot cover, what follows is some probably inaccurate thinking...

Some boot covers can be done by in effect making a stocking/pantyhose pattern block and tweaking it to include a constructed 'hole' at the heel for a pair of worn heels to go through.. Drafting this hole is likely to be specific to a design/heel combination, so I'm not sure if there's a systematized way to formalize this into formulae.

A "boot cover" pattern (based on what I was able to find for free.) has at least 3-4 pattern sections. (which is in fact 6-8, (given that the left and right would be mirrored) :


 * A 'sole' which on some designs (more like spats) is omitted, the bottom line of the riser of outside edges of the vamp (see below)


 * A vamp' which is the portion at the front over the toes. This may be a drafted in 2 sub sections for the 'inner part' (i.e. that adjacent to the inside leg) and one for the "outer part" (i.e that adjacent to the outside leg.) the center of the vamp may be cut (and seamed) to form a particular shape, there may also be additional darts in the outer edge, I think.


 * A riser(?) which is the portion of the boot cover which goes up the leg.


 * Depending on the design you may also have a 'face'(? Or is there a different term) which overlaps the vamp and riser and forms part of the 'top' of the boot cover.  Additional facings may be used on the riser to accommodate lacing, zips or button stands or for certain details on the riser or at the top line of the boot cover. (I'm not sure if I've got the right terms here, as I am not a shoemaker either.)

Of these pattern parts, the riser is perhaps the easiest draft as it can use either a tight fitting leggings block suitably extended from the ankle to the heel  ( In effect a variant on a stirrup pattern) and cut-off  at a suitable point up the leg, typically calves, knee or (if appropriate to context) thigh. It may in some situation be possible to use tweaked 'spats pattern' also suitably extended. It should be noted that the bottom of the riser will need to match up with the the sole pattern (if used) at the center back of the boot cover.. (notching both the sole and riser patterns if a sole pattern is used)

Obtaining a sole pattern is best done either by reference to standard models, tracing (from a known shoe) or by drawing around the foot the boot cover is to be fitted for.

I wasn't sure how you created a 'vamp' pattern from scratch, and I would welcome suggestions on how this might be done, most of the actual shoe-making content talk about using a last, which an amateur  I don't obviously have..